Category Archives: Location: Santa Monica Mountains (West)

Hikes in the Santa Monica Mountains west of Malibu Creek State Park, including Point Mugu State Park, Zuma Canyon, Circle X, Leo Carillo State Park and more

Ray Miller Trailhead to Overlook Trail in Point Mugu State Park

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Pacific Coast Highway from Point Mugu State Park

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Ray Miller Trailhead to Overlook Trail in Point Mugu State Park

  • Location: Point Mugu State Park between Malibu and Oxnard.  From Oxnard, take highway 1 south for 15 miles.  The Miller trailhead is on the left (if you reach the Sycamore Canyon Campground,  you’ve come too far.)  The daily parking fee is$8.  From Santa Monica, take highway 1 north for 34 miles.  The Miller trailhead will be on the right, about two miles past the Sycamore Canyon campground.  From the San Fernando Valley, take highway 101 to highway 23 and head south to P.C.H.
  • Agency: Point Mugu State Park
  • Distance: 5.4 miles
  • Elevation gain: 950 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time: 2.5 hours
  • Best season: Year round (hot in summer)
  • USGS topo maps: “Point Mugu”
  • Recommended gear: sunblock; sun hat
  • More information: here; Backbone Trail information here.
  • Rating: 7

This hike visits the westernmost section of the Backbone trail, “Segment A.”   The Backbone Trail crosses the Santa Monica Mountains, from Will Rogers State Historic Park to 16,000-acre Point Mugu State Park.  Point Mugu is one of the more isolated parts of the Santa Monica Mountains, probably due to its northern location, and most of the visitors go to the more popular (and more expensive) Sycamore Canyon area.  A few miles north on P.C.H. is the secluded Ray Miller trailhead.

From the parking lot, follow the signed Backbone Trail and begin your ascent.  The trail winds up in and out of a few canyons, taking in nice views of the ocean.  The ascent is steady, although never too steep.  The hike can be hot during the summer, but if you get an early start, the mountains will shield you from the sun until you reach the ridgeline, at about 2 miles.

Once y0u get to the Overlook Trail, you can, of course, extend the hike by traveling south (right) to the overlook, about 3 miles away, or north, to the La Jolla Valley Camp (about 4 miles).  Point Mugu State Park has about 100 miles of trails altogether, so you’re sure to find something you like.

Zuma Canyon

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Heading into Zuma Canyon

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Zuma Canyon

  • Location: Malibu, near Point Dume.  From Pacific Coast Highway, head north on Bonsall Drive (a mile west of Kanan Dume).  Follow the road a mile to its end and park in the dirt lot.  Parking is free.
  • Agency:  Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area
  • Distance: 2.8 miles
  • Elevation gain: 100 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: G
  • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
  • Best season: All year
  • USGS topo map:  ”Point Dume”
  • More information: here
  • Rating: 6

People tend to overlook Zuma Canyon, which is one of the few places in Malibu that is easily accessible, but also very quiet–shielded from freeway noise by the hills that surround it.

There are several longer, more challenging hikes possible from the Zuma trailhead, but the short trip through the canyon is easy for any hiker, while taking in a nice sample of the area’s scenery.  From the parking lot, head north into the canyon.  Stay straight at the various trail intersections (some of them are loops that can be added if you want a longer trip).

After about a mile, the canyon narrows.  The walls of the canyon, plus the shade of oaks and eucalyptus trees, adds to the feeling of seclusion.  At 1.4 miles, the use trail comes to an end in a clearing.  Rock-hoppers can continue up the canyon, which reaches the Edison fire road after two difficult miles, but in order to keep this a family friendly hike, this is a good turnaround spot.

Solstice Canyon

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As seen in the Nobody Hikes in L.A. Guidebook!

Among the ruins of the Tropical Terrace

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Solstice Canyon

  • Location: North of Malibu off Pacific Coast Highway.  From Santa Monica, take P.C.H. for 15 miles.  Take a right onto Corral Canyon (just past Pepperdine University, at the 76 gas station), and almost immediately take a left into Solstice Canyon Park.  Drive to the main parking lot (parking is free).  The trail to the Tropical Terrace leaves from the north side of the parking lot.
  • Agency: Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area/Solstice Canyon Park
  • Distance: 2.4 miles
  • Elevation gain: 350 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: G
  • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
  • Best season: All year
  • USGS topo map:  ”Malibu Beach”
  • More information: here; see trip reports and photos here.
  • Rating: 7

This short but sweet hike visits the Tropical Terrace, the most famous landmark in Solstice Canyon, by way of a pleasant stroll along the stream.   Besides the quick out-and-back trip to the house described here, there are several other loops possible, but this is the best one for a hot day as it is short, easy and almost entirely shaded  by sycamores, live oaks and adlers.

The trail begins on a service road and climbs into the canyon, quickly leaving behind the highway noise.  After half a mile, it passes by the ruins of the Keller House, said to be Malibu’s oldest, from 1865.  As the trail continues, it takes in views of the higher walls of the canyon, including the Rising Sun trail, which is a possible return route.

Finally, we arrive at the ruins of the Tropical Terrace mansion, which burned in a wildfire.  The foundations, some chimneys and staircases remain.  There is something intriguing, almost ghostly, about the house, which seems to symbolize the excesses and consequences of life in Los Angeles.  Some people will find these ruins to be a lot of fun to explore; others may find them creepy.  Whichever camp you are on, the Solstice Canyon trail certainly gives a lot of food for thought.

Return as you came, or if the day is cool and you want more of a workout, consider following the Rising Sun trail up a steep grade from the other side of the house site.  This trail gives some nice ocean views before dropping back down to the parking lot.  Either way, before leaving the house, make sure you check out the waterfalls.  Supposedly there’s a hidden statue somewhere too, although I haven’t seen it yet.

Corral Canyon Loop

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Sunset from the Corral Canyon Loop

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Corral Canyon Loop

  • Location:  Malibu.  Take Pacific Coast Highway past Malibu Canyon Road, and 0.6 miles past Puerco Canyon Road, 0.3 miles before Corral Canyon Road.  The trailhead is next to the Malibu Seafood & Deli restaurant, at 25623 Pacific Coast Highway.  A $5 per vehicle parking fee is required.
  • Agency: Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy
  • Distance: 2.2 miles
  • Elevation gain: 500 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
  • Best season: All year
  • USGS topo map: “Malibu Beach”
  • More information: here
  • Rating: 6

The Corral Canyon Loop provides a quick, easy workout–with coastal views that Bally’s and 24 Hour Fitness can’t offer.  The trail’s convenience to Pacific Coast Highway means that it never really escapes the highway noise, but if you’re looking for a quick getaway with your friends (who, of course, can split the parking fee with you), rather than a quiet escape into nature, the Corral Canyon Loop definitely works.

The hike begins by crossing Corral Canyon, which may be a little wet depending on the season, then turns left and arrives at a junction.  The loop can be done either way, but I hiked it counterclockwise by heading to the right.  The trail zigzags at a steady grade up the ridge heavy with cacti, wallflowers and other fauna, taking in the ocean vistas.  Stay left at a false trail junction and continue up on a lesser grade to a sharp switchback, where the descent begins.  After another mile, arrive at the junction and head back through the canyon to the trailhead.

Dry Canyon Trail, Solstice Canyon Park

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Seasonal waterfall in Dry Canyon

Oaks in Dry Canyon

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Dry Canyon Trail

  • Location:  North of Malibu off Pacific Coast Highway.  From Santa Monica, take P.C.H. for 15 miles.  Take a right onto Corral Canyon (just past Pepperdine University, at the 76 gas station), and almost immediately take a left into Solstice Canyon Park.  Drive to the main parking lot (parking is free) and pick up the signed Dry Creek trail at the south end of the lot.
  • Agency:  Santa Monica Mountains, Solstice Canyon Park
  • Distance: 1.2 miles (out and back)
  • Elevation gain: 200 feet
  • Suggested time: 45 minutes
  • Difficulty rating: G
  • Best season: All year
  • USGS topo map: “Malibu Beach”
  • More information: here
  • Rating: 4

Malibu’s Solstice Canyon Park is perhaps best known for the Tropical Terrace mansion ruins, but this little trail is also worth exploring.  For commuters who don’t necessarily have time to do a huge hike but want to take a short little nature walk, Dry Canyon is perfect.  (It also happens to be a nice little stop if you’re driving from Long Beach to meet up with friends to do Sandstone Peak and are running early and want to feed your addiction with another hike and your girlfriend is cool with it.  Hey, if you ask her nicely, she might even join you.)  But I digress.

The Dry Canyon trail begins on the opposite side of the parking lot from the TRW and Solstice Canyon trails, and heads into a grove of oaks.   Far above, you can see the Darth Vader-esque TRW buildings and a few isolated houses.  After a short distance, the trail starts a surprisingly steep climb out of the canyon.  It becomes slightly overgrown and the dirt is loose in spots, making the climbing a little trickier than one might first expect.

The trail crosses the canyon, and at this point, you may notice a tall, thin, seasonal waterfall that cascades down the rock face following recent rains.  Shortly beyond the waterfall, the trail starts to peter out, eventually fading into the bushes.  This is the turnaround point.

Sandstone Peak

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As seen in the Nobody Hikes in L.A. Guidebook!

Sunset from Sandstone Peak

My response to people who ask me if Sandstone Peak ever gets old

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Sandstone Peak

  • Location: Western Santa Monica Mountains, between Malibu and Oxnard.  From Santa Monica, take Pacific Coast Highway 30 miles to Yerba Buena Road.   Yerba Buena Road is just past the Ventura County line.  Mulholland Highway is the last major street before Yerba Buena.  Take a right on Yerba Buena and drive 6.5 miles.  The trail head is on the left.  Parking is free.
  • Agency: Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area/Circle X Ranch
  • Distance: 6 mile loop
  • Elevation gain: 1,300 feet
  • Suggested time: 3.5 hours
  • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (terrain, elevation gain)
  • Best season: Year round
  • USGS topo map: “Triunfo Pass”; “Newberry Park”
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • More information: here
  • Rating: 10

This is a risky blog for me to write, because anybody who knows me knows that once I start talking about Sandstone Peak, I have difficulty stopping, so if I gush in this post, please bear with me.   As of this writing I am gearing up for my seventh ascent of the highest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains, and all of the people who I’ve brought there agree that it lives up to its hype.

From the parking lot, a steep trail ascends 0.3 miles to a T-junction.  Take a right on the connector trail, enjoying great views of the Santa Monica Mountains, and on clear days Mt. Baldy and even San Jacinto and San Gorgonio.  After 0.2 miles, pick up the Mokwa Trail.  The Mokwa Trail is one of the more challenging portions of the hike, with many short but steep up and down stretches and rocky terrain.  After about half a mile, you will get a great view of the Echo Cliffs, popular with rock climbers, looming above Triunfo Canyon.  A large boulder, the appropriately named Balanced Rock, is perched on the edge of the cliffs.

After another tricky three quarters of a mile or so, the trail dips into a wooded area and begins a descent into a clearing where hikers find another geological landmark: Split Rock.  An unspoken requirement is that hikers walk through the gap in this boulder.  Picnic tables and a serene creekside setting make this a great place for a break.

When ready, pick up the trail leading out of the right side of the clearing, and begin a mile long ascent on the backside of Sandstone Peak, crossing two canyons, passing some interesting geological formations and arriving at the Backbone Trail.  Stay left at the next couple of junctions, and start enjoying ocean views to the south and views of Simi Valley and Thousand Oaks to the north.  The grade becomes steep at this point, although never too difficult.  After about a mile, the trail makes an “S” curve and a sign directs hikers up a staircase to Sandstone Peak.  This final push to the summit is steep, and ultimately there really is no trail, just rocks to scramble over.  A plaque at the top identifies the peak by its alternative name, “Mt. Allen” (in honor of local Boy Scouts figure W. Herbert Allen).    Below you, the cliffs drop off seemingly vertically, and on clear days, six different Channel Islands can be located.   Because this final ascent is so difficult, some hikers I’ve made the trip with opt to stay down below at the base of the staircase.   This has resulted in another tradition among my hiking circle, less wholesome than walking through Split Rock, which involves the hikers who reach the summit and those who don’t mooning each other.  However, you don’t have to carry this particular tradition to enjoy the Sandstone Peak experience.

After enjoying the view, head back down to the main trail, and head right up a slight slope before beginning a steep mile-long descent.  You will get some more great coastal views and a bird’s eye look at Balanced Rock.   Arrive at the first junction and head right back down the hill to the parking lot.

It might be a little melodramatic to say that hiking Sandstone Peak changed my life, but it definitely changed my relationship with hiking from hobby to obsession.  This is a truly great hike that has too much to offer for mere words to describe.  If you are still reading this, do yourself a favor: log off your computer, get in your car, drive, and experience this awesome trail for yourself.  You won’t be disappointed.

Nicholas Flat Loop/Malibu Springs Trail

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The pond at Nicholas Flat, Leo Carrillo State Park

Ocean view from near the Nicholas Flat pond

Text and photography copyright 2010 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved.  Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability.  All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities.  The author does not take any responsibility for injuries sustained during hikes or walks on the routes described here.   Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Nicholas Flat Loop (with pond)

  • Location: Santa Monica Mountains northwest of Malibu.  From Santa Monica, take Pacific Coast Highway for 27 miles.   Head north (right) on Mulholland Highway, go 3.1 miles and park in the turnout for the Malibu Springs trail on the right.
  • Agency:  Leo Carillo State Park
  • Distance: 7 miles (2 mile out and back plus 3 mile loop)
  • Elevation gain: 1,600 feet
  • Suggested time: 3.5 hours
  • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (elevation gain, steepness, distance)
  • Best season:  October to June
  • USGS topo map: “Triunfo Pass”
  • Recommended gear: hiking poleswidth=
  • More information:  here
  • Rating: 7

The farther west you are willing to drive, the more rewarding the Santa Monica Mountains become.   While Leo Carrillo may be a popular park for its beaches and camping, few visitors take advantage of the many hiking trails in the back country of the park.  This route to Nicholas Flat, and its small but famous pond, starts on the steep Malibu Springs trail.   Although the climb is intense–about 1,400 feet in two miles–it is on primarily north facing slopes, and with an early start, it is a doable summer hike.

After switchbacking up two miles–during which great views of Boney Mountain can be seen–arrive at a junction.  Head south (right), climb another 200 feet and then begin the descent to Nicholas Flat, where the ocean comes into view.

Head left on the Nicholas Flat trail, toward the pond, crossing the meadow.   (Just before the pond, take a signed spur for some nice ocean views).  The Nicholas Flat trail heads north from the pond, passing through an oak woodland, joining Decker School Road after 3/4 of a mile.  After half a mile on Decker School Road, look for a trail heading off to the left, taking you another half mile back to the junction with the Malibu Springs trail.   Head right on the Malibu Springs Trail and retrace the two miles back to the trailhead.