Mastodon Peak (Joshua Tree National Park)

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Looking north from Mastodon Peak

Mastodon Mine (don't go inside!)

Mastodon Peak (Joshua Tree National Park)

  • Location:  Joshua Tree National Park.  From I-10 about 30 miles east of Indio, take the Cottonwood Springs exit.  Head north for 7.2 miles to the visitor center (the road becomes Pinto Basin on the way).  Pay the $15 admission fee at the ranger station and head right (east) and drive 1.1 miles to the trailhead.  The America the Beautiful pass ($80 per year) is honored at Joshua Tree.  To purchase one, click here.
  • Agency: Joshua Tree National Park
  • Distance: 3 miles
  • Elevation gain: 400 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
  • Best season:  October – March
  • USGS topo maps: “Cottonwood Spring”
  • Recommended gear: sun hat ; sunblock
  • Recommended guidebook: Afoot & Afield Inland Empire
  • More information:  here
  • Rating: 8

The short trip to Mastodon Peak is one of the more popular hikes in Joshua Tree National Park. Although it’s not necessarily the best place to see the trees themselves, there’s a nice variety of scenery on the trail, including ocotillo cacti, cottonwood trees, creosote and more.

From the parking area, follow the trail down toward Cottonwood Springs, a desert oasis. You follow the trail through a canyon lined on both sides with walls of the red rocks typical of the region. A few false trails branch off, but the main route is pretty clear.

In 0.7 miles, you’ll arrive at a junction. Hikers who want a long trip can continue straight ahead to Lost Palms Oasis, three miles away, but Mastodon Peak is to the left. The trail climbs steeply, occasionally taking advantage of natural “steps” in the rocks, and about a mile from the trailhead, you reach the short spur to Mastodon Peak. Follow the trail to a ridgeline, where you will turn left and scramble up some rocks to the summit. The climb isn’t difficult, but some hikers who aren’t used to this kind of terrain may find it a little intimidating (take extra care if you’re hiking with young kids.)

Soon, you arrive at the rocky summit, where you get a nice panoramic view of the park to the north, and the Salton Sea, El Toro Peak and San Jacinto Peak to the south. After enjoying the view, head back down the spur to the trail. You can retrace your steps back to the parking lot, but a more interesting option is to continue along the loop trail. You’ll soon pass the abandoned Mastodon Mine, and then descend into a canyon. The trail heads northwest, climbs up a small ridge and descends into another wash.

Here, you come to a split: the trail in front of you heads up to the campground, while your route goes left. Follow the trail back to the road (there are a few interpretive plaques here to see along the way) and soon you arrive back at the parking lot.

In case you were wondering, the peak was named by prospectors, who thought from certain angles, it resembled a mastodon.  The Mastodon Mine, passed on the loop trail, operated from 1934 to 1971.

Mt. Lee via Cahuenga and Burbank Peaks

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The "Lone Pine" on Burbank Peak

The steep approach to Burbank Peak

Mt. Lee  via Cahuenga and Burbank Peaks

  • Location: Wonder View Drive and Lake Hollywood Drive in Hollywood.  From downtown, take Highway 101 to the Barham Blvd. exit.  Turn right on Barham, go 0.3 miles and turn right on Lake Hollywood Drive.  Go 0.5 miles and park on the corner of Lake Hollywood Drive and Wonder View Drive.  From the 134 Freeway, take Forest Lawn exit.  Go 2.3 miles on Forest Lawn and turn left on Barham.  Go 0.8 miles and turn left on Lake Hollywood Drive and go 0.5 miles to Wonder View Drive.
  • Agency:  Griffith Park
  • Distance: 3 miles
  • Elevation gain: 1,300 feet
  • Suggested time: 2 hours
  • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (Steepness, terrain, elevation gain)
  • Best season: October – May
  • USGS topo map:  Burbank
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles ; sun hat
  • More information: detailed trip report here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 7

Great scenery and interesting history make this one of the most enjoyable hikes in the Hollywood Hills and Griffith Park.   This hike travels through the western end of Griffith Park, land once owned by Howard Hughes.  Although short, the steep ascent to the ridge and the rugged terrain between Cahuenga Peak and Mt. Lee make this a challenging hike.

This route visits three summits in the Hollywood Hills, each with their own character.  Burbank Peak (1,690 feet) is the westernmost of the three, known for the single pine found on its flat summit.  Cahuenga Peak (1,820) is the highest point in the Hollywood Hills.  Mt. Lee (1,680) apparently has some sort of sign on it that people seem to like seeing.

The route begins with a quarter mile walk up private Wonder View Drive.  Though paved, the street is nice and quiet and provides views that make the reason for its name obvious.  On the way up, you’ll see downtown L.A., the Hollywood Reservoir and more.

When Wonder View Drive ends, look for a single-track trail bearing right, heading steeply up the slope of the hill. Despite the intimidating grade (it climbs about 500 feet in half a mile) and occasionally rocky terrain, this part of the trail provides some very enjoyable views to the south. After making a switchback, the trail reaches the ridgeline between Burbank and Cahuenga Peaks. Here, you get great views to the north, including the San Gabriel, Verdugo and Santa Susana ranges.

To get to Burbank Peak, head left and make a gradual climb. You can sit beneath the shade of the lone pine, also known as the Tree of Knowledge. This is the westernmost peak of the Hollywood Hills and arguably has the best views of the three summits on this route.

From Burbank Peak, head back east and follow the ridge to the summit of Cahuenga. (The trail splits a couple of times on the way, but the two forks merge quickly, so it doesn’t matter which route you take). Though taller, Cahuenga’s summit isn’t as scenic as Burbank Peak’s, and there isn’t really any place to sit and enjoy the view. It is a good spot to catch your breath, however, before continuing on to Mt. Lee.

From Cahuenga’s east slope, the trail continues steeply downhill. Although the terrain is a little rough, the trail is easy to follow. There is one short drop that will probably require hands as well as feet, but other than that, there’s nothing that a couple of hiking poles can’t solve. After dropping steeply, the trail climbs a knoll, drops again and then approaches Mt. Lee. Just before reaching the service road, take a left and head briefly downhill. (It may appear as if you should go right and uphill; the author did this, almost knee-capping himself on a jagged rock, only to find that the route was a dead end.) You join the service road, head right and follow it past the sign to Mt. Lee’s summit.  Here, you can look at the Hollywood Sign from above, and take in the rest of the view before heading back.

Text and photography copyright 2012 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Love Valley

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Lake Henshaw from the trail to Love Valley

Love Valley

Love Valley

  • Location: Cleveland National Forest, in the foothills southeast of the Palomar Mountains near Santa Ysabel.  From Interstate 15 south of Temecula, take highway 76 west for 30.3 miles.   Just before Lake Henshaw, turn left on East Grade Road (county road S-7).  Drive 3.3 miles and look for a big turnout on the left side of the road.  It used to be signed for Love Valley, but the sign is no longer there.  A National Forest Service Adventure Pass ($5 for a day or $30 for the year) is required. Click here to purchase.
  • Agency: Cleveland National Forest/Palomar Mountain Ranger Distridct
  • Distance: 2 miles
  • Elevation gain: 300 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: G
  • Suggested time: 1 hour
  • Best season: October – June
  • USGS topo map: Palomar Observatory
  • More information: Trip report here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 8

This short but very scenic trip is one of the most enjoyable in the Palomars, and the wide vistas are not unlike the famous Panorama Trail of Yosemite National Park.  Although there are no waterfalls, the views of Lake Henshaw and the Volcan and Cuyamaca Mountains to the east are quite something; very much a pleasant surprise for hikers of San Diego and elsewhere.

The actual destination of the trail, Love Valley, is a wide open meadow, and it makes a great place for a picnic.  At 3,300 feet above sea level, it’s likely to be reasonably cool even into the summer months, and there are plenty of oak trees for shade.  There’s also a big red barn, completing the Americana feel.

From the parking area, walk around the metal gate and begin heading downhill on the fire road.  Soon you get some great views of Lake Henshaw and the mountains across the way.  The trail descends for 0.8 miles before arriving at a split.  Here, you can either walk straight and head to the barn, or you can go left (south), where you soon arrive at a small knoll dotted with oaks.  A short climb over some rocks gives you nice views of the lake.  The fire road becomes a single-track and continues south for a little ways, but this makes a good turnaround point.

To be sure, this hike is a little bit short to justify driving all the way from Orange County or L.A., but it certainly makes a nice trip from San Diego.  It can also easily be combined with a visit to the famous Palomar Mountain Observatory Trail, or perhaps Cuyamaca Rancho or Anza-Borrego State Parks.   It’s well worth making the effort to visit.

Text and photography copyright 2012 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

La Jolla Valley Loop via Chumash Trail (Point Mugu State Park)

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Entering La Jolla Valley, Point Mugu State Park

Ocean view from the top of the Chumash Trail, Point Mugu State Park

La Jolla Valley Loop via Chumash Trail (Point Mugu State Park)

  • Location: Western end of Point Mugu State Park, in Ventura County. From the end of I-10 in Santa Monica, take the Pacific Coast Highway for 36 miles.  The Chumash Trail is on the north side of the road (right), across from an orange lookout tower, past the other two entrances to the park (La Jolla and Big Sycamore).  From the San Fernando Valley, take Highway 101 to the Lewis Road/Route 34 exit (35 miles west of I-405).  Go south for 5.4 miles on Lewis (it changes to Hueneme Road on the way) and turn left on Las Posas.  Go 3 miles and turn left onto Pacific Coast Highway.  Go 2.3 miles and look for the parking lot on the left.  From Santa Barbara and Ventura, take highway 101 to exit 62/Pacific Coast Highway and follow it southeast for 13 miles.
  • Agency: Point Mugu State Park
  • Distance: 6.8 miles
  • Elevation gain: 1,200 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG-13 (Steepness, distance, elevation gain)
  • Best season: October to May
  • USGS topo maps: “Point Mugu”
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles ; sun hat
  • More information: Chumash Trail info and photos here and here; alternate route through the loop (including Mugu Peak) here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 8

This challenging and scenic route is like several smaller hikes rolled into one: a trip through a meadow with panoramic views, a pleasant walk through a quiet, shaded canyon–and an extremely steep climb and descent. There are several possible variations to the route; it can easily be shortened or extended.

The Chumash Trail is the westernmost trail in Point Mugu State Park, cutting through an area that could be described as the Santa Monica Mountains’ last stand before dropping to the ocean and the coastal plain of Ventura and Camarillo.  It’s closer to Santa Barbara than L.A., but can still be reached in about an hour from Santa Monica along P.C.H. The small parking lot that provides access to the Chumash Trail is the westernmost of Point Mugu State Park’s three Pacific Cost Highway entrances. It’s the only one too with free parking – although the steepness of the Chumash Trail could be seen as a price of sorts.

From the parking lot, the Chumash Trail ascends at a grade that may make you question the presence of a benevolent higher power. The good news is that as you climb up the hill, you’ll get great views of the ocean, and the Channel Islands. Expect to spend at least half an hour on this 0.7 mile stretch, which climbs nearly 900 feet. Several false trails branch off but the main route is usually pretty clear. About half way up, the trail splits but soon comes back together. At this point, the grade lessens slightly, but you’ll undoubtedly be huffing and puffing by the time you arrive at the juncture with the trail to Mugu Peak.

This route heads left, up to a saddle where another trail to Mugu Peak branches off. Stay straight, and begin a slight descent into La Jolla Valley. Here, you get a payoff for your earlier efforts. La Jolla Valley is true example of a land that time forgot. When you’re walking through the wide meadow, it’s hard to believe you’re in So Cal. Rolling hills dominate the foreground, while Boney Mountain lurks off to the northeast. Other than some satellite equipment on the hills and an occasional aircraft overhead, there are virtually no signs of civilization.

At 1.1 miles, the La Jolla Valley Loop Trail (your return route) comes in from the right. Stay straight; pass through a grove of oaks and make your way northeast. Another path branches off to the right, but you stay straight and soon arrive at the La Jolla Valley Campground. Just before you get there, you’ll cross a footbridge that may look unstable, but the plywood surface is backed up by more
solid beams underneath.

The La Jolla Valley Campground has a few shaded picnic tables. This can be a nice place to stop for a break before continuing (2.5 miles from the start). Shortly past the campground, you’ll turn right on the La Jolla Valley Loop Trail. (You can extend the trip by continuing northeast, where several other trails soon intersect.)

The La Jolla Valley Loop Trail heads south, through a canyon and past a small pond. Here you get the first real shade of the hike, mainly from tall chaparral, and a few oaks. After 1.2 miles (4 miles from the start), you’ll come to a split. The La Jolla Canyon Trail heads south toward Pacific Coast Highway, while our route heads west (right), cutting alongside the hill. You get a few glimpses of the ocean during this stretch (which is also part of the route to Mugu Peak described on this site.)

After 0.9 miles, the Mugu Peak trail branches off to the left (it’s a more challenging alternate to this route; it also eventually leads back to the Chumash Trail). Another trail heads right soon afterward, but we continue straight on the La Jolla Valley Loop Trail. It crosses a small canyon which may have some water if there’s been rain, and re-enters La Jolla Valley. At 5.7 miles from the start, you complete the loop. Head left, up the hill and out of the valley, and back toward the Chumash Trail. This is a good place to take a break and admire the scenery; it’s best to make the steep descent with fresh legs.

The variety and quality of the scenery on this trip is more proof that while Point Mugu State Park might not be terribly convenient, it’s one of the best places to hike in the Santa Monica Mountains, and well worth the effort to get there.

Text and photography copyright 2012 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Backbone Trail: Encinal Canyon Road to Etz Meloy Motorway

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Moon over the Backbone Trail

Backbone Trail between Mulholland Highway and Etz Meloy Motorway

Backbone Trail: Encinal Canyon Road to Etz Meloy Motorway

      • Location: Northwestern Santa Monica Mountains on Encinal Canyon Road.  From Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu, 24.4 miles from the end of I-10, take Encinal Canyon Road for 5 miles.  Turn right to stay on Encinal Canyon and go a mile to a dirt turnout on the left side of the road (across from the fire station).  This is the parking lot for the Backbone Trail.  From Highway 101, take the Kanan Road exit and head south on Kanan Road for 6.2 miles.  Turn right on Mulholland Highway, go 0.9 miles and bear left on Encinal Canyon Road.  The parking area will be on the right in 2.4 miles.
      • Agency:  National Park Service
      • Distance: 7.2 miles
      • Elevation gain:  850 feet
      • Difficulty Rating: PG-13 (Distance)
      • Suggested time:  3.5 hours
      • Best season: October – June
      • USGS topo maps: Triunfo Pass; Point Dume
      • More information: here; Everytrail report here
      • Rating: 7

The 3.6 mile stretch of the Backbone Trail from Encinal Canyon Road to the Etz Meloy Motorway is one of the system’s newer segments. The lower stretch, from Encinal Canyon to Mulholland Highway, was completed in 2004; the upper stretch in 2007. As of now, parking is not available on Mulholland, but plans are in the works to change that.

This part of the trail is more popular with mountain bikers (be careful of them, because with many switchbacks, they can be hard to see) than hikers, so you’re not likely to have much company. The scenery isn’t quite as varied as it is on the Backbone sections in the nearby Point Mugu and Sandstone Peak areas, but it still takes in some nice views of the western Santa Monicas. Except for some intermittent traffic noise on the two roads, there are few sights or sounds of civilization.

From Encinal Canyon Road, the trail climbs gently to Mulholland Highway. After crossing Mulholland (there is no traffic light or cross walk, but traffic is usually light here), the Backbone passes through a meadow and starts climbing some more switchbacks. There is very little shade, although unless you are hiking at high noon, odds are the many ridges and hills in the area will block out the sun.

As you climb, the views get wider. To the east, you can see Castro Peak and the so-called “Mitten Mountain”. Finally, you reach the section’s end at the Etz Meloy motorway, where you get a nice 180-degree view to the south. This makes a good turnaround point (3.6 miles from Encinal Canyon Road).

To the right, the road heads downhill and soon reaches private property. You can, however, extend your trip by heading left (uphill). The Etz Meloy Motorway is accessible for another mile or so before reaching private land – one of the two parcels that is necessary for the National Park Service to acquire to achieve the long-held goal of creating a continuous Backbone Trail from Point Mugu to Will Rogers State Historic Park. For more information about the trail and its progress, click here.

Text and photography copyright 2012 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Piedra Blanca

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The sandstone formations of Piedra Blanca

Crossing Sespe Creek in the Los Padres National Forest

Piedra Blanca

      • Location: Los Padres National Forest north of Ojai.  From the town of Ojai, drive 15 miles north on highway 33 (a total of 28 miles from Highway 101.)  Turn right on Rose Valley Road and drive 6.5 miles to the Piedra Blanca trailhead.  Park at the campground and pick up the Sespe Creeek trail at the end of the lot. A National Forest Service Adventure Pass ($5 per day or $30 for the year) is required for parking here. Click here to purchase.
      • Agency: Los Padres National Forest/Ojai Ranger District
      • Distance: 2.8 miles
      • Elevation gain: 500 feet
      • Difficulty Rating: PG
      • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
      • Best season:  October – June
      • USGS topo map: Lion Canyon
      • Recommended gear: hiking poles  (for stream crossings)
      • More information:  here
      • Rating: 8

If one were to mix the unusual geology of Vasquez Rocks with the wide desert and mountain views of the Desert Divide south of the San Jacintos, the result might be something like this hike in the Los Padres National Forest. While Piedra Blanca may be something of a drive for most L.A. area hikers, it’s worth a visit, especially if you have enough time to combine it with other hikes in the area.

From the end of the Lion Campground, pick up the Sespe Creek trail, which starts by the information board and the restrooms. Even from here, you can see your destination: the huge sandstone outcrops that stick out from the desert floor, a mile away as the crow flies. The trail crosses the creek three times, which can be a little tricky if the water level is high (rocks and logs are usually put together to form makeshift bridges, and hiking poles will help too.)

Shortly after the third crossing, you’ll come to a split. Head left and begin climbing, taking in nice aerial views of the creek as you ascend. Head right at the next intersection, and soon you’ll find yourself with great up-close views of the sandstone slabs.

At 1.4 miles from the campground, the trail dips downward. It continues another mile toward Piedra Blanca Camp, and then deeper into the Sespe Wilderness, options if you want to extend the trip. However, for this route, the saddle here marks the turnaround point. With care, you can scramble up one of the formations and take in nice views of the Sespe Creek area to the south and the wilderness to the north before heading back.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Whitewater Canyon Preserve: Canyon Ridge Loop

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Crossing the Whitewater River (note trail on the other side)

Geology in Whitewater Canyon

Whitewater Canyon Preserve: Canyon Ridge Loop

  • Location: East of Banning and Cabazon; northwest of Palm Springs.  From I-10, take the Whitewater Canyon Road exit.  Turn left on Tipton, cross the freeway and turn right on Whitewater Canyon Road.  Almost immediately, make a left to stay on Whitewater Canyon Road and drive 4.5 miles to the end.  From Palm Springs, take the Whitewater Canyon Exit, turn right on Tipton and right on Whitewater Canyon Road.
  • Agency:  Wildlands Conservancy
  • Distance:  3.2 miles
  • Elevation gain:  600 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time: 1.5 hours
  • Best season: October – April (8am – 5pm)
  • USGS topo map: Whitewater, Morongo Valley, Catclaw Flats
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • Recommended guidebook: Afoot & Afield Inland Empire
  • More information: here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 7

Snowmelt from the east side of San Gorgonio and some of So-Cal’s other highest peaks has carved a wide canyon in the desert, with dramatic results.  Hikers who visit the Whitewater Canyon Preserve may be at points reminded of the Alaskan glaciers and of the Grand Canyon–all a two hour drive from Los Angeles, and less than an hour from Riverside, San Bernardino and Palm Springs.

From the information board, follow the signed trail north, into the canyon.  A sign on a rock informs you that Mexico is 219 miles away and Canada is 2,446 miles away.

The trail, easy to follow because it is bordered with rocks on both sides, heads up along the Whitewater Canyon wash.  Soon, the service road continues ahead while the trail branches off to the left.  You get to your first creek crossing (see photo) where you will turn right and briefly follow the banks of the water before picking up the trail on the other side.  Unless the water level is unusually high, this should not be a problem.

After reaching the other side of the wash, you arrive at a junction where the Pacific Crest Trail continues northward. To continue on the loop, take a hairpin turn to the left and head south. The P.C.T. now climbs steeply, but as it does, you’re rewarded for your efforts with great aerial views of the Whitewater River.

In 0.7 miles, you reach the top of the ridge and arrive at another fork. The P.C.T. continues south; our route, the Canyon Ridge Loop, heads to the left. For a while, the trail follows the top of the ridge. You get a 270-degree view here, which includes San Jacinto Peak and the Santa Rosa Mountains to the south, and the canyon to the east. A spur on the left leads to a scenic overlook which makes a nice rest spot.

Soon, the trail begins its descent, switchbacking down the ridge and meeting up with the road, half a mile south of the reserve. You can complete the loop on the road, or if you prefer, after the road crosses the bridge, you can take a signed single-track trail that leads to the picnic area and then back to the ranger station.

If you want a more ambitious hike, you can head north on the P.C.T. and make the 8-mile trip to the nearby Mission Creek Preserve. If that’s not enough of a challenge, there’s always Mexico and Canada.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities.  By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail.  Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Tachevah Falls via North Lykken Trail

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Tachevah Falls

On the North Lykken Trail

Tachevah Falls via North Lykken Trail

    • Location: Palm Springs.  From I-10, take the Highway 111 exit and head southeast for 9.5 miles and turn right on Via Escuela.  Go 0.2 miles and turn left on Via Norte.  Go 0.2 miles and turn right on Chino Canyon Road.  Turn left on Panorama Road and go 0.3 miles.  Bear left onto Cielo Drive and take a left on a spur (it will look as if you are going into private property, but you are not).  At the end of the spur, between a tennis court and a cactus garden, park and begin on the North Lykken Trail.
    • Agency: Santa Rosa & San Jacinto Mountains National Monument
    • Distance: 4 miles
    • Elevation gain: 900 feet
    • Difficulty Rating: PG-13 (Steepness, terrain, trail condition)
    • Suggested time: 2.5 hours
    • Best season:  October – April, daylight only (waterfall access: October – December)
    • USGS topo maps: “Palm Springs”
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles ; sun hat; long sleeve shirt and pants
    • Recommended guidebook: Afoot & Afield Inland Empire
    • More information: trip report here; Everytrail report here 
    • Rating: 7

Most people don’t associate waterfalls with Palm Springs, and those who do usually think of Tahquitz Canyon. However, Inland Empire hikers won’t want to miss Tachevah Falls, which, despite being dry most of the year, is very visually striking. Add a huge variety of scenery on the North Lykken trail – including panoramic views of Palm Springs, interesting geology and desert vegetation – and you have one of the more entertaining hikes in the area.

From the end of the spur off Cielo Drive, the North Lykken trail (named for former Palm Springs postmaster and businessman Carl Lykken) wastes no time in climbing 300 feet to a ridge. Here, hikers can relax at some picnic tables before continuing on. The trail dips down and closely hugs the side of the Santa Rosas. Terrain can be a little tricky here, although the route should be fairly obvious. After passing by a false trail that branches off down the hill to the left, and passing the mouth of a wide canyon, you arrive at a junction, 1.6 miles from the start. Here, the Lykken Trail continues (somewhat obscurely) to the left, and a spur heads off to the right, where you get your first look at Tachevah Falls.

According to “Afoot and Afield”, access is only legal from October to December, although I did not see any signs indicating this while actually on the trail. Still, if you are visiting during another time of the year and don’t want to take your chances, this can be a good turnaround point; the views are pretty dramatic. You can also continue on the North Lykken Trail, climbs out of the canyon and up to a junction with the Museum Trail and the infamous Skyline Trail that eventually leads to the San Jacinto summit.

If you want to see the falls more closely, follow the trail to the right up into the canyon. The trail follows the wash of Tachevah Creek, sometimes going in and out of it. You may find yourself climbing over rocks and pushing aside bushes, including some thorny mesquite (hence the long shirt/pants recommendation), but usually the trail won’t be too hard to find. The huge rock wall ahead will help with your orientation. The only real navigational point to remember is, when you pass a huge boulder on the right (about a quarter mile into the canyon), head uphill to the left on a trail that steeply ascends the southern wall of the canyon. A bit more climbing gets you to the waterfall, where your best views are from a rock shortly in front of it. Although water is likely to be only trickling here, the unusual rock surface – striped in beige, brown, white, gray and black from years of sedimentary buildup – is well worth the effort it takes to get there. Tachevah rivals Black Star Canyon for being one of the most distinctive looking waterfalls in So Cal, and unlike its Orange County counterpart, this one’s appearance is completely natural. And there’s no poison oak to deal with on the way down, either.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Backbone Trail: Piuma Road to Stunt Road

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Crossing the creek in Dark Canyon on the Backbone Trail

Sandstone geology on the west ridge of Saddle Peak

Backbone Trail: Piuma Road to Stunt Road

    • Location: Piuma Road, near Malibu Creek State Park.  From Pacific Coast Highway, take Malibu Canyon Road north for 4.6 miles.  Turn right on Piuma.  In 1.2 miles, at a hairpin turn in the road, look for a small dirt turnout on the left (next to a driveway at the address 25575 Piuma Road.)  Park here to access the Backbone Trail.  From Highway 101, drive south on Las Virgenes for five miles and turn left on Piuma.
    • Agency:  National Park Service
    • Distance: 6.8 miles
    • Elevation gain:  1,400 feet
    • Difficulty Rating: PG-13 (Elevation gain, distance)
    • Suggested time:  3.5 hours
    • Best season: October – June
    • USGS topo maps: Malibu Beach
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles
    • Recommended guidebook: Afoot & Afield Los Angeles
    • More information: here; Everytrail report here
    • Rating: 7

This lightly-traveled section of the Backbone Trail features a lot of the types of scenery that draws people to the Santa Monica Mountains: panoramic views, interesting geology, quiet and shaded canyons and more. This part of the trail alone is quite a good workout, but if you really want to challenge yourself, you can continue on to Saddle Peak.

From the small turnout on Piuma Road, head northeast on the Backbone Trail. Stay right at a junction and head downhill, soon coming to a creek that is a tributary of nearby Cold Canyon. After crossing the creek, the trail begins a fairly steep ascent, switchbacking up out of the canyon. For the most part, the terrain isn’t too tough here, but there a few places where the hiking poles will come in handy. As you climb, you’re rewarded for your efforts with nice views of the Goat Buttes of Malibu Creek State Park.

Soon the trail levels out, entering a meadow on the southwest side of Saddle Peak. Across the canyon, you get a great view of the peak’s interesting sandstone geology. After climbing some more, the trail enters another nice shaded area, covered by oaks and chaparral.

Shortly afterward, you arrive at the junction with the trail to Saddle Peak. If you want to continue onto Saddle Peak, turn right. This route, however, stays left and continues 0.3 miles to Stunt Road. During this last stretch, you get nice views of nearby Calabasas Peak. Stunt Road itself might seem a little anti-climatic as a destination, but on this hike, the variety of scenery and the relative isolation makes the journey itself the real reward.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Potrero John Trail

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Crossing the creek

Pines on the Potrero John Trail

Potrero John Trail

    • Location: Los Padres National Forest, north of Ojai. From the 101 freeway, take highway 33 north for 34 miles (21 miles north of Ojai and 6 miles north of the intersection with Rose Valley Road).  After crossing a bridge, you’ll see the sign for the Potrero John Trail.  Park at the side of the road in a a small dirt turnout.
    • Agency: Los Padres National Forest/Ojai Ranger District
    • Distance: 3.4 miles
    • Elevation gain: 500 feet
    • Difficulty Rating: PG
    • Suggested time: 2 hours
    • Best season:  October – June
    • USGS topo map: Lion Canyon
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles
    • More information: trip report here; Eveytrail report here
    • Rating: 8

This short trail in the Sespe Wilderness area of the Los Padres National Forest may be a little bit of a drive for most L.A. hikers, but it’s well worth checking out. This time of year, when snow dusts the rugged peaks above the canyon, the trail is particularly attractive.

From the small turnout, the Potrero John Trail heads down to the creek. For the next mile or so, you follow the water, crossing it several times. None of the crossings are particularly tricky, but you should always exercise caution, especially if the water level is high. There are a few fallen trees to climb around too, but overall the going is not to difficult. The scenic highlights include distant views of the higher Los Padres peaks, interesting sandstone on the canyon walls and the trickling stream.

After about a mile, the trail leaves the tight confines of the canyon and enters a field. (“Potrero”, by the way, is Spanish for meadow.) There are a few spots where the trail becomes a little ambiguous, but the main route shouldn’t be too hard to find. You make a couple of more creek crossings, and eventually you’ll see the campground across the water. The trail peters out at this point; you can either make this your turnaround point or ford the creek and sit at the Potrero John campground, under the shade of some giant oaks, before heading back.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Shortcut Saddle to West Fork Trail Camp

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San Gabriel Peak from Shortcut Canyon

In Shortcut Canyon

Shortcut Saddle to West Fork Trail Camp

    • Location: Angeles Crest Highway, between Mt. Wilson and Chilao Flats.  From I-210, head northeast for 19 miles.  Just past the intersection with Upper Big Tujunga Canyon Road, park in a turnout on the right side of the road, at Shortcut Saddle.  A National Forest Service Adventure Pass ($5 per day or $30 for the year) is required for parking here. Click here to purchase.
    • Agency: Angeles National Forest/Los Angeles River Ranger District
    • Distance: 7 miles
    • Elevation gain: 1,800 feet
    • Suggested time: 4 hours
    • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (Terrain, elevation gain, distance, navigation)
    • Best season:  Year-round (depending on conditions)
    • USGS topo maps: Mt. Wilson, Chilao
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles sun hat
    • More information: here; Everytrail report here
    • Rating: 8

Shortcut Canyon today is best known as a segment of the Silver Moccasin trail, and also as an unofficial dividing point between the front country and high country of the San Gabriel Mountains. However, before the Angeles Crest Highway was completed, it was one of the main routes from the San Gabriel Valley into the high country.

The 7-mile round trip (according to my GPS unit; “Trails of the Angeles” lists it as a 6 mile round trip and the ANF signage indicates 7.4) is similar to the nearby Devil’s Canyon hike in the San Gabriel Wilderness. This one doesn’t quite have as varied scenery, or the panoramic views of the Devil’s Canyon, but it’s still well worth a visit. The destination is the West Fork Trail Camp, although one can easily add on to the trip on any of the four trails that meet there.  Weather can play a big role in planning this hike: while it can certainly be doable year-round, snow and high water levels can present challenges during the winter, and the exposed upper reaches of the canyon can be hot during the summer.  Hiking poles are advisable, both for the steep upper portion of the hike and the nearly two miles each way in the canyon, with many stream crossings.

From the highway, look for a single-track trail that zigzags steeply down the hill to a fire road. Turn right, and in 0.1 miles, continue on the single-track, on the left. For the next mile and a half, you make your descent on the trail, which closely hugs the walls of the canyon. You have great views of San Gabriel, Mt. Wilson, Markham and Mt. Disappointment as you go. The trail is in good condition, although there are a few fallen trees that present more of a nuisance than an obstacle, and there are some spots where the drop-offs are pretty sharp. You pass by a small seasonal waterfall, although the trail doesn’t go close enough to provide a good look.

At about 1.8 miles (approximately half way), the trail curves sharply and makes a steep descent to the bottom of the canyon.  Here, the going can be a little tricky.  There are several stream crossings, which as of this writing are all easy, but can easily become difficult if the water level is high.  Watch out for poison oak, too.

Navigation can be a little tough here, although there are quite a few trail ducks and the crossing points should be pretty obvious.  In general, the trail follows closely along the banks of the creek.  Half a mile into the canyon, a tributary comes in from the right.  You continue another mile, in and out of the creek, around a few fallen trees, and soon you arrive at the merge with the West Fork of the San Gabriel River.  Depending on how high the water level is, the best place to cross may vary.  On the opposite side, you will find the West Fork Trail Camp, with picnic tables, an outhouse and some fire pits.

The shade and the sound of the two streams coming together makes this a nice place to relax before continuing the next leg of the hike – be it continuing west to the Valley Forge camp, east to the DeVore Camp or back to the Angeles Crest Highway.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities.  By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail.  Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Water Canyon (Chino Hills State Park)

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Growth in Water Canyon

Deer in Water Canyon

Water Canyon (Chino Hills State Park)

    • Location: 4721 Sapphire Road, Chino Hills.  From the 71 expressway, take the Soquel Canyon Exit, head southwest (take a right if you’re coming from the north or left if from the south) for a mile and turn left on Elinvar.  G0 0.2 miles and turn left onto Sapphire.  Take a quick right onto the dirt road (Bane Canyon) leading into the park.  Drive 2.6 miles on a good dirt road and park at Lower Aliso Campground (or at an equestrian staging area 0.2 miles farther if it’s full).  Parking is $5 per vehicle.
    • Agency:  Chino Hills State Park
    • Distance: 3.4 miles
    • Elevation gain: 400 feet
    • Difficulty Rating: PG
    • Suggested time: 2 hours
    • Best season: November – May (Friday through Monday)
    • USGS topo map:  Prado Dam
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles ; sun hat
    • More information: here; Everytrail report here
    • Rating: 7

Rugged Water Canyon is one of Chino Hills State Park’s most popular destinations, and it’s not hard to understand why. As you make your way up into the canyon, climbing over fallen branches and navigating around trees and cacti, you’ll feel miles away from any kind of civilization.  The sounds – which include woodpeckers, squirrels and more – are just as much of the attraction here as the sights.

From the parking area, head south on the Lower Aliso Canyon Trail, as you would for the Skully Ridge Loop.  After a pleasant 0.6 miles of walking through a wide meadow, with the characteristic rolling hills of the park on both sides, you cross a footbridge and reach a junction. Head right on the Skully Ridge Trail, and almost immediately take another right on the Water Canyon trail.

You cross another footbridge and then head left on a rough single-track trail that clings to the hillside.   The trail is a little vague in places, but overall not too difficult to follow. As you make your way up into the canyon, you may notice some interesting geology on the hills above to the right. Depending on what time of year you visit, you’ll probably either see nice fall or spring colors.

After a mile of traveling in the canyon, you arrive at a split, where a tributary comes in from the north. This quiet spot, about 1.7 miles from the parking area, makes a nice place to turn around. Adventurous hikers can venture down the left fork and continue up Water Canyon. Just be careful of the poison oak and nettles.

Note that Chino Hills State Park often closes following recent rains; check with the park before visiting.  The Water Canyon trail, due to its remote location, is particularly susceptible to weather-related closures.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

East Side Loop (Griffith Park)

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Descending from Mt. Hollywood on the East Side Loop

On the Mineral Wells Trail

East Side Loop (Griffith Park)

  • Location: Griffith Park near Los Angeles.  From the south, take I-5 to the Los Feliz exit, turn left and cross the freeway and turn right on Crystal Springs Drive.  Go 1.3 miles and turn right onto Griffith Park Drive.  Park in the lot near the merry go round.  From the north, take the Los Feliz exit and turn right, then immediately right onto Crystal Springs Drive.
  • Agency:  Griffith Park
  • Distance: 6.2 miles
  • Elevation gain: 1,300 feet
  • Suggested time: 3.5 hours
  • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (Elevation gain, steepness)
  • Best season: October – May
  • USGS topo map:  Burbank
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles ; sun hat
  • More information: here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 7

L.A. hikers who take Griffith Park for granted might want to try this route out for size. The six-mile loop described here is challenging, very scenic and surprisingly rugged.

From the parking area, head uphill to the junction with the East Trail, as if you were headed to Bee Rock. At the T-junction, turn right and begin a vigorous climb, almost immediately taking in nice views of the San Gabirel Mountains and Burbank. Soon the trail levels out and you can see Bee Rock towering above. By the time you are done climbing, you will be about as far above Bee Rock as you now are below it.

At 1.2 miles, the trail to Bee Rock splits off. Stay straight on a trail that curves toward the right, and then almost immediately turn left onto the Bill Eckert Trail. You make a pleasant climb through a canyon, and soon arrive at another junction. Head right, and soon, where the road makes a sharp turn to the left, look for a trail heading uphill over rocky terrain (1.7 miles from the start.) The first few yards are a little tricky, but soon the terrain becomes easier to navigate, and you make a quick climb to a junction with another fire road. Head left and continue climbing to the Vista Del Valle, the paved (but closed to traffic) road that runs through the park.

Head right and soon look for a trail marked with a “no bikes” sign. This single-track climbs steeply (200 feet in a quarter mile) before reaching another fire road. Here, you head left and climb a little more before reaching the top of the ridge.

Now, your payback: the next stretch has great views on both sides. You can get a rare aerial perspective on Bee Rock to the east (left), a well as commanding views of the San Gabriels. On the right, look for the Hollywood Sign on Mt. Lee, and on clear days, you can see the ocean and the Santa Monica Mountains.

In a few minutes, you meet up with a five-way intersection. Head straight to access a spur that brings you to the top of Mt. Hollywood, where you get a 360 degree view of the area.

Heading back down to the junction, this time you take a hard right and head downhill. Stay straight at the next split, and you begin to descend steeply on a rough path sometimes known as the Hogsback Trail (the hiking poles will be helpful here.) As before, you have dramatic views on both sides.

After crossing a footbridge, you meet up with Vista Del Valle again. Head right and almost immediately, look for the Mineral Wells Trail heading off to the left. After the rugged descent, the shaded Mineral Wells Trail, which is moderately graded and lightly traveled, will seem like a welcome relief. Recent rains have made the grass very green as well.

In less than half a mile, you arrive at another junction. The straight route brings you to Beacon Hill, but to complete the loop, make a hard right and descend another mile on the fire road. Shortly before you reach the parking lot, you can make one last variation on the route by heading right on a single-track trail, down a staircase and past an amphitheater, and back to the starting point.

The route, of course, doesn’t have to be followed exactly. Griffith Park’s signage is slim to none, but most of the trails are easy to find and orientation is not too tough. It may seem hard to believe, but this route really only covers a small fraction of the 4,400-plus acres here. Even for veteran hikers, Griffith Park has much to offer.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Chiquito Trail

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View from the Chiquito Trail

Oaks on the Chiquito Trail

Chiquito Trail
    • Location: Southwest Riverside County off of highway 74.  From Lake Elsinore, take highway 74 west for 11 miles.  The San Juan Loop trail parking lot is on the right, across the street from the Ortega Oaks (Candy) Store.  From Orange County, take highway 74 east for 21 miles.  The parking lot is on the left.  A National Forest Service Adventure Pass ($5 day/$30 year) required for parking.  Click here to purchase.
    • Agency: Cleveland National Forest/Trabuco Division
    • Distance: 9.6 miles (to waterfall site)
    • Elevation gain: 1,700 feet
    • Suggested time: 5 hours
    • Best season: December – May
    • USGS topo maps: Sitton Peak, Alberhill
    • Recommended gear: hiking poles
    • More information: here; Everytrail report here
    • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (distance, elevation gain)
    • Rating: 7

Named for former ranger Kenneth Munhall’s horse, the Chiquito Trail (not to be confused with nearby Chiquito Basin) runs for six and a half miles in the Santa Ana Mountains, connecting the Viejo Tie trail and the San Juan Loop Trail. The route described here shares the first mile with the San Juan Loop trail and then branches off, with the 15-foot seasonal Chiquito Falls as its destination. Recent rains unfortunately haven’t had an impact on the falls, which as of this writing is barely a trickle, but they have brought out some color in the oaks that line the canyons, making it seem almost rain-forest like. Some fall colors are still visible on the maples as well.

Begin by following the San Juan Loop Trail in either direction from the parking lot. In 1.1 miles, at the approximate half way point at the bottom of the canyon, look for the unsigned Chiquito Trail branching off.

Follow the Chiquito Trail across the canyon bottom and head northwest for a mile. You cross an unnamed tributary and then get to the bulk of the climbing. The trail ascends about 800 feet in just under two miles, most of it fairly easy but there are a few rocky stretches that may be a little tricky.

As you climb, you alternate between pleasant woodlands shaded by oaks, and open stretches where you get nice, panoramic views of San Juan Canyon and the highway far below. A little less than four miles from the start, the trail levels out. This can be a good turn-around point, with great view to enjoy. For those who want to continue to the waterfall or all the way up to the junction with the Viejo Tie Trail, the next mile is downhill. Soon you can see Lion Canyon below to the left, and if the falls are flowing, they will become visible. A short spur takes you to the top of the 15-foot rock wall where Chiquito Falls happens after heavy rains. Even if the falls are dry, this is a nice spot to sit and relax for a while before turning around. Past here, the Chiquito Trail continues for 2.4 miles before reaching the Viejo Tie Trail.

If a nearly ten mile round trip hike seems like a lot for a waterfall that may or may not be flowing, keep in mind that any amount of hiking on this trail is enjoyable, especially on cool, clear days. It’s a great training hike, too.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Rock Pool via Grasslands Trail (Malibu Creek State Park)

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Crossing Malibu Creek

Dusk on the Grasslands Trail, Malibu Creek State Park

Rock Pool via Grasslands Trail (Malibu Creek State Park)

    • Location: Calabasas, near the intersection of Mulholland Highway and Las Virgenes Road.  From Highway 101, take the Las Virgenes Road exit and go south for 3.1 miles to Mulholland Highway.  Take a right on Mulholland Highway and almost immediately, look for the Grasslands Trail on the left.  Limited parking is available on the side of the road (if there is none, you can also park in a small dirt lot on the corner of Mulholland and Las Virgenes.)  From Pacific Coast Highway, drive north on Malibu Canyon Road for 6.3 miles (during which time the street changes its name to Las Virgenes).  Turn left on Mulholland.
    • Agency:  Malibu Creek State Park
    • Distance: 3.3 miles
    • Elevation gain:  350 feet
    • Difficulty Rating: PG
    • Suggested time:  2 hours
    • Best season: October – June
    • USGS topo maps: Malibu Beach
    • More information: here; Everytrail report here
    • Rating: 7

This enjoyable loop visits the Rock Pool, one of Malibu Creek State Park’s landmarks. Starting in the northeastern corner of the park, this trip is a nice, moderate workout that takes in some of the area’s best scenery.

From the Grasslands Trail, head south into the park, passing through a landscape of rolling hills and oaks that might seem more like the Midwest or wine country than Los Angeles. After a short incline, you come to a split. Head down-hill on an unsigned trail, with nice views of the Goat Buttes in front of you. Bear right at the next junction and soon you arrive at the bottom of the hill.

Turn right onto High Road, a wide fire road that goes under a canopy of large oaks, providing nice shade on hot days. Bear left at the next junction and soon you meet up with Crags Road, the main route through the park. To reach the Rock Pool, head straight, passing the left side of a picnic area and entering a canyon. High sandstone walls on both sides are popular destinations for rock climbers.

Soon you reach the Rock Pool, where you can sit at a picnic table and enjoy the scenery. The Rock Pool is created by volcanic boulders that dam the creek.

After retracing your steps, continue the loop by turning right on Crags Road. You cross a bridge, which is a nice place to stop and take pictures of the creek as it flows beneath the hills. Soon you bear left on a trail that goes through the meadow and crosses Malibu Creek. On the other side, pick up Waycross Drive, head briefly to the left and then make a right to stay on Crags Road. Soon you’ll see the Grasslands Trail heading off to the left. Make your ascent, and in a quarter mile, you rejoin the first segment of the loop. Retrace the last half mile back to Mulholland.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Emerald Vista Point/El Moro Loop/Red Route (Crystal Cove State Park)

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View from the Emerald Vista Point

Heading into El Moro Canyon

Emerald Vista Point/El Moro Loop/Red Route (Crystal Cove State Park)

  • Location: 8471 North Coast Highway, Laguna Beach.  From the 73 freeway, take the Mac Arthur exit (the last one before it becomes a toll road).  Take Mac Arthur 3.2 miles to its terminus at North Coast Highway.  Turn left (south) and go 4 miles to the park entrance, on the left.  From Laguna Beach, take Coast Highway north for 2.8 miles and the park entrance will be on your right.  From downtown Huntington Beach, the park is 12 miles south on Pacific Coast Highway.   Parking fee is $15 per day.
  • Agency: Crystal Cove State Park
  • Distance: 4.7 miles
  • Elevation gain: 700 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time: 2.5 hours
  • Best season: October – May
  • USGS topo map:  Laguna Beach
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • More information: here; park map here; Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 7

Crystal Cove State Park may be best known for its beaches and marine geology, but there’s a lot to check out in the back country.  On the inland side of Pacific Coast Highway, the park has dozens of miles of trails to explore.

The moderate hike described here is sometimes called the “Red Route” (there’s an easier “Green Route” and a more challenging “Blue Route” as well.) From the entry station, drive down to the newly built campground and day use area (follow the signs). At the back of the parking lot, begin walking across a large footbridge into El Moro Canyon.

Stay straight as the B.F.I. trail (your return route) comes in from the right. The first mile through El Moro Canyon is pleasant and more or less level. The hills on both sides block out much of the noise of the highway nearby.

Shortly after crossing the canyon, you head right on the East Cut-Across. That this trail has been nick-named “I Think I Can” should clue you in to the fact that you’re in for a little bit of a climb. Fortunately, the views get better and better as you ascend, and in a mile, after climbing about 600 feet, you arrive at a triangle-shaped junction. Go right (south) onto El Moro Ridge Road, toward the ocean.

After about three quarters of a mile, head straight on a short spur that leads to the Emerald Vista Point. Unfortunately, you have to share this spot with a communications antenna, but the views – Dana Point to the south, Catalina Island straight ahead and the Palos Verdes Peninsula to the north – are great, especially if the air is clear.

When you’re done enjoying the scene, retrace your steps and head left (southwest) on the El Moro Ridge Trail. It soon starts to descend steeply, giving good aerial views both of the canyon and the beach at Corona Del Mar.

After a mile, head right on the B.F.I. trail. What exactly those initials stand for depend on whom you ask, but the polite version is Big Fat Incline. Your hiking poles will be your B.F.F. on the B.F.I. trail, as it makes a steep dip near the end, crossing a footbridge and completing the loop. Head left, across the larger bridge, and back to the campground.

While the day use fee of $15 is higher than that of most state and county facilities, Crystal Cove State Park has a lot to offer. Unlike the other state parks of Orange County’s coastline, Crystal Cove has an extensive back-country as well as miles of beaches (included in the price of admision). If you make the trip with several friends, you can split the cost.

Either way, it’s still a lot cheaper than Disneyland.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities.  By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail.  Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Sandberg/Golden Eagle Loop

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Dusk on the Sandberg Trail

Meadow on the Sandberg Trail

Sandberg/Golden Eagle Loop

  • Location:  Northwestern Los Angeles County, between Castaic and Gorman.  From I-5, take the exit for Highway 138 and head east for 4.3 miles.  Turn right on the Old Ridge Route and go a total of 2.7 miles to the town site of Sandberg.  Park on the side of the road near the historic plaque.  A National Forest Service Adventure Pass ($5 per day or $30 for the year) is required for parking here. Click here to purchase.
  • Agency: Angeles National Forest/San Clara & Mojave Rivers Ranger District
  • Distance: 4.6 miles
  • Elevation gain: 1,200 feet
  • Suggested time: 2.5 hours
  • Difficulty rating: PG-13 (Steepness, elevation gain)
  • Best season: October – June
  • USGS topo map: Liebre Mountain
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • More information: here (mountain biking site); Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 8
Panoramic high desert views, a wide variety of foliage and a little bit of California history are some of what await hikers willing to make the long trek to the northwest corner of the Angeles National Forest for this trip.The town of Sandberg was a once a resort. Its alpine setting (4,200 feet above sea level) made it a popular winter destination, and it was a stop on the Old Ridge Route, one of the first roads to connect L.A. and the Central Valley. It was supposed to be quite a treacherous drive; the speed limit was 15 miles per hour.

Across the street from the Sandberg plaque, begin hiking on what is often called the Golden Eagle Trail, which heads uphill into a woodland of manzanitas, pines and oaks. You get nice views of the high desert as well. Stay right at your first junction, and continue past a spur that leads to the road. Now begins what is called the Sandberg Trail on some maps.

Soon, a quarter mile from the start, you come to a split. The Sandberg Trail, which is the return route for this loop, continues to the right. (An alternate route is to take the Sandberg Trail both up and down, resulting in a total distance of 5.4 miles.)

Those who want a challenge, however, can stay left and begin a steep ascent on a trail that is loose in some places (the poles will come in handy here). The good news is that this short stretch – where you gain 700 feet in 0.6 miles – is shaded, and you have great views of the desert and the Tehachapi Mountains as you make your way up.

At 0.9 miles from the start, you meet up again with the Sandberg Trail. The good news is that most of the effort is behind you at this point. Head left and soon you arrive at a flat meadow, where you get nice views in both directions. The meadow itself, dotted with oaks and maples, may remind So Cal hikers of San Diego’s Palomar Mountains, or perhaps the higher country of the Santa Anas.

Soon after, you cross a fire break (stay straight) and two miles from the start, you cross forest road 7n23. A few yards beyond, the trail enters a field where you get some good views to the south. This is the turnaround point, although hikers can continue on the road in either direction.

On the way back, you can descend on the steep route, but for variety, try continuing on the Sandberg Trail, which winds around the western flank of Liebre Mountain for 1.3 miles before returning to the split. Along the way, you get good views of Pyramid Lake and the hills of the Los Padres National Forest. Dusk is a particularly nice time to hike here.

At 4.3 miles, you rejoin the other route. Retrace your steps over the last 0.3 miles back to the Sandberg site.

Although it may seem remote, this hike is actually closer to downtown L.A. (and certainly the Valley) than than Big Bear Lake and Lake Arrowhead. If you get off to an early enough start and beat the traffic, you can get here from the Valley in an hour. The trails of the northwestern Angeles National Forest aren’t as well known as their counterparts closer to L.A. but there’s a lot of great scenery up here that’s different from what one usually sees in So Cal.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities.  By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail.  Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Lookout Loop (Malibu Creek State Park)

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Century Lake, Malibu Creek State Park

Goat Buttes in Malibu Creek State Park (click picture to purchase from the N.H.L.A. Gallery)

Lookout Loop (Malibu Creek State Park)

  • Location: Malibu, near Cornell.  From highway 101, take the Kanan Road exit and head south for 0.5 miles.  Bear left onto Cornell Way.  Go 2.3 miles, and just past Mulholland Highway, turn left into the parking area.  (The road is called Lake Vista on this side of Mulholland).  From Pacific Coast Highway, take Malibu Canyon north for a total of 6.3 miles (it becomes Las Virgenes on the way) and turn left on Mulholland.  Go 3.2 miles and turn left on Lake Vista.  Take the first left into the parking lot.
  • Agency:  Malibu Creek State Park
  • Distance: 3.8 miles
  • Elevation gain:  500 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG
  • Suggested time:  2 hours
  • Best season: October – June
  • USGS topo maps: Malibu Beach
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • Recommended guidebook: Afoot & Afield Los Angeles
  • More information: here (similar route); Everytrail report here
  • Rating: 7

This scenic loop explores some of Malibu Creek State Park’s back country, starting with the area known as the Reagan Ranch. From the dirt lot, head east into the park on a fire road. After passing some ranch buildings, you arrive at the Yearling Trail, a single-track. As you make your way along, you get nice views of the hills to the north.

In 0.4 miles, bear right at a split, onto the Deer Leg trail. This brings you through a pleasant oak woodland (you can stop for a picnic at a table here). You make a few switchbacks, keeping right at the junction, and then you arrive at a crest, where you get great views of the Goat Buttes before making a steep descent on the Cage Creek trail.

Head right, following the trail (it can be tricky at this point, as it tends to be overgrown, so look for footprints). The Cage Creek trail makes a steep descent – 250 feet in less than a quarter mile, so be careful. (This is where your poles will serve you well.)

At the bottom, you arrive at Crags Road, Malibu Creek State Park’s main drag. Head left on this fire road, and take a detour to see beautiful Century Lake, where you can have a second picnic at a conveniently provided table.

Back at Crags, bear left on the Lookout Trail and begin your ascent. You get nice aerial views of Century Lake and the western end of the park, plus other nearby summits such as Sugarloaf and Ladyface.  The ascent is steep, but fairly short, and soon you arrive at a junction.  The Cistern Trail branches off to the right, reaching Mulholland Highway, but your route continues straight, through another pleasant woodland.  The Lookout Trail continues through a field, soon rejoining the Yearling Trail. From here, you retrace your steps back to the ranch buildings and your car. Reagan Ranch was in fact named after the former president, who owned the property before he became California’s governor.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Sullivan Canyon Loop

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Oaks and sycamores in Sullivan Canyon

West Mandeville Fire Road

  • Location: Brentwood, on the corner of Bayliss and Queensferry.  From I-405, take the Sunset Blvd. exit west for 2.4 miles.  Turn right on Mandeville Canyon Road and make a quick left on Westridge.  Go 1.2 miles (the road is curvy and narrow, so be careful) and turn left on Bayliss.  Park on the corner of Bayliss and Queensferry (there are “no parking” signs but they do not appear to be enforced; on a recent visit there no tickets were seen on windshields.  If you are concerned about getting a ticket you can drive to the end of Westridge and park in a small lot.)
  • Agency: Santa Monica Mountains Conservancy
  • Distance: 10 miles
  • Elevation gain: 1,600 feet
  • Difficulty Rating: PG-13 (Distance, elevation gain)
  • Suggested time: 4.5 hours
  • Best season: October – May
  • Recommended gear: sun hat ; insect repellent ; sunblock
  • USGS topo maps: “Canoga Park”; “Topanga”
  • More information:  Trip reports here and here (shorter routes); Everytrail report here; map of the Westridge Canyonback portion of the hike here
  • Rating: 7
Sullivan Canyon Loop

It may seem hard to believe that only a few miles from UCLA, the Getty Museum and Sunset Boulevard, one can take a 10-mile hike, much of which escapes the sights and sounds of civilization, but the Sullivan Canyon Loop provides just such an experience. This long loop is one of the more challenging trips in the eastern Santa Monicas. The whole loop is quite an undertaking, but if you’re short for time, going just a little ways in the canyon is an enjoyable little excursion.

From Queensferry, head downhill past the gate and into the canyon. For three and a half miles, you make your way up a gentle grade, under the cover of sycamores and oaks. The walls of the canyon block out virtually all of the noise from the city nearby. From time to time, you may get glimpses of the hills above the canyon between the trees. Some veteran hikers may find this three-mile-plus stretch a little monotonous toward the end, but soon, the grade gets a little steeper as the road climbs out of the canyon. At the junction, take a hairpin turn to the left and continue your climb, with nice views of the canyon to the south.

In less than a mile, you arrive at the Sullivan Fire Road. Head right and follow the backbone, with nice views of the Santa Monica Mountains on the left. This brings you to the dirt section of Mulholland. Head right, enjoying views that on clear days include the San Fernando Valley and San Gabriel Mountains, and in 0.7 miles, you arrive at San Vicente Mountain Park. This is the former missile site (you can still see some of the old buildings and walk up the watchtower) that is now a popular hiking destination. Head right and into the park; some picnic tables under a shelter make a nice place for a stop.

From the park, head south on the West Mandeville Fire Road. Stay right as another road branches off to the left. You’re in an area known as the Big Wild, and as Westridge Canyonback Wilderness Park. There are a few short uphill stretches, but for the most part your work is done. You get nice views of Sullivan Canyon to the right and Mandeville Canyon to the left. On clear days, you can see the ocean.

After 3.5 fairly easy miles, the fire road ends in a residential area at Westridge Road. Follow Westridge half a mile to Bayliss. Turn right and head downhill another half mile to your car.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.

Ben Overturff Trail (Monrovia Canyon Park)

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On the Ben Overturff Trail

Hills above Monrovia Canyon

Ben Overturff Trail (Monrovia Canyon Park)

  • Location: Foothills north of Monrovia.  From I-210, take the Myrtle Avenue exit and drive north for 1.9 miles.  Take a right on Scenic Drive, and stay straight when Canyon Blvd. merges.  Follow Canyon Blvd. to the entrance of the park.  Parking is $5 per car.
  • Agency:  Monrovia Canyon Park
  • Distance: 7.1 miles
  • Elevation gain: 2,000 feet
  • Difficulty Rating:  PG-13 (Elevation gain, steepness, distance)
  • Suggested time: 4 hours
  • Best season: October – May (8am-5pm; closed Tuesday and Wednesday)
  • USGS topo maps: “Azusa”
  • Recommended gear: hiking poles
  • More information: trip reports and reviews here; here
  • Rating: 7

If you enjoyed Monrovia Canyon Falls and want more of a challenge, consider undertaking this trip to the ruins of the historic Deer Park Lodge. Recent rains have made the area pleasantly cool, and the sound of the water flowing down the canyon is a nice accompaniment to the hike, but be careful of wet leaves and rocks, particularly as you get higher in the canyon, where the trail tends to cling very closely to the hillside.

The beginning of the hike isn’t particularly inspiring, but once you get on the actual Overturff trail, the scenery is great. You begin by following the paved road up from the parking lot, to the falls and nature center. Take a right on a gated private road leading to the Trask Scout Camp. Go inside the fence and follow the road over a bridge. You pass by the large Sawpit Dam, and after about a mile, bear right on a dirt road.

Soon after, you come to a junction. Head left between two stone columns to get to the Ben Overturff trail. The next two miles are challenging but very scenic. You go in and out of the canyon, through a meadow, and after a mile, make a very steep climb up a stretch known as the “Isthmus.” You’ll probably have to stop and catch your breath, but when you do, you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views down into the canyon.

After the climb ends, the trail heads back down into the canyon, passing by Twin Springs. You cross the creek and head left, continuing up another steep stretch to the last intersection, with the Deer Park Trail. Stay straight again and soon you arrive at the ruins of Deer Park Lodge. Ben Overturff and his wife used to run the lodge, which was a popular vacation retreat in the early 20th century. According to an interpretive plaque at the site, the going rate for a weekend’s room and board was twenty-five cents.

There’s not much to see up here, only ruins of the Deer Park Lodge buildings, but it is a nice, shady place to sit and relax, and you get some good views both above and below.

On the way back, for some variety, take a left on the Deer Park trail, which soon leads to the fire road. Take a right and head back down for two miles to the intersection with the Overtruff trail, and retrace your steps on the paved road, down the hill and back to the parking lot.

Text and photography copyright 2011 by David W. Lockeretz, all rights reserved. Information and opinions provided are kept current to the best of the author’s ability. All readers hike at their own risk, and should be aware of the possible dangers of hiking, walking and other outdoor activities. By reading this, you agree not to hold the author or publisher of the content on this web site responsible for any injuries or inconveniences that may result from hiking on this trail. Check the informational links provided for up to date trail condition information.